A no-wasted-arrows sighting sequence: 10-yard rough-in, 20-yard zero, then walk the pins out.
A no-wasted-arrows sighting sequence: 10-yard rough-in, 20-yard zero, then walk the pins out. Follow the steps in order — each one builds on the last.
Step 1: Start at 10 yards
Shoot a three-arrow group at a large target. Move the whole sight housing — follow the arrow: impacts low mean move the housing down.
Step 2: Zero the 20-yard pin
Step back to 20 and refine with the same follow-the-arrow rule, switching from housing moves to individual pin moves once close.
Step 3: Chase windage at 20
Fix left-right before going further out — windage errors multiply with distance.
Step 4: Walk out to 30, 40, 50
Set each pin with three-arrow groups. If your sight has auto-spacing (like the Trophy Ridge React), two distances set everything.
Step 5: Confirm on a different day
Light, fatigue and adrenaline change your shot. A second-session confirmation catches first-day artifacts.
Why a Methodical Sight-In Saves Time
Sighting in a bow looks tedious, but a clear method gets you from a fresh sight to dead-on in well under an hour. The secret is the follow-the-arrow rule: you move your sight pin toward the impact, not away from it. Once that clicks, every adjustment makes obvious sense and you stop wasting arrows guessing which way to turn the screws.
A good sight-in also builds confidence you can feel. When each pin is verified at its distance, you draw on a target knowing exactly where the arrow will land, which frees your mind to focus on execution instead of doubt. That confidence is what holds your form together at long range and under pressure.
What You Will Need
- A bow with the rest and nock height already tuned
- A movable sight and the small wrenches to adjust it
- A target you can shoot from ten out to fifty yards
- A dozen well-matched arrows and a calm, safe range
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Moving the pin away from the impact instead of toward it
- Starting at long range before the bow prints close, wasting arrows on the backstop
- Adjusting off a single arrow instead of the center of a group
- Changing windage and elevation at the same time and losing track of the effect
- Skipping the next-day confirmation that proves the zero will hold
Pro Tips for a Fast Sight-In
- Begin close at ten yards to get on paper, then zero the twenty-yard pin
- Follow the arrow: move the pin in the direction the group landed
- Lock elevation first, then chase windage, so you isolate one variable at a time
- Shoot three-arrow groups and adjust off the center, not a flier
- Walk out pin by pin to thirty, forty, and fifty, confirming each before moving on
Final Word
A sight-in is just a sequence of small, logical moves once you trust the follow-the-arrow rule. Start close, zero your twenty, chase windage, then step out and verify each pin. Confirm it again on a different day, and you will have a sight you can stake your shot on every time you draw.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which way do I move my sight pin?
Follow the arrow: move the pin in the same direction your group landed relative to the bullseye.
Where should I start sighting in?
Begin at about ten yards just to get on paper, then zero your twenty-yard pin before moving back.
Should I adjust windage or elevation first?
Lock in elevation first, then chase windage, so you only change one variable at a time and can read its effect.
How many arrows should I adjust off of?
Always adjust off the center of a three-arrow group rather than a single shot, which can be a flier.
Why confirm on a different day?
A second-day check verifies your zero holds across changing conditions and your own form, so you can trust each pin.