The full compound tuning sequence — timing, center shot, paper tune and broadhead tune — in the order that actually works.
The full compound tuning sequence — timing, center shot, paper tune and broadhead tune — in the order that actually works. Follow the steps in order — each one builds on the last.
Step 1: Check cam timing and synchronization
Draw the bow on a draw board and confirm both cams reach their stops together. Timing off by more than 1/16″ means everything downstream will fight you.
Step 2: Set the center shot
Align the arrow rest so the arrow sits at the manufacturer’s spec — typically 13/16″ from the riser — and runs parallel to the stabilizer bushing line.
Step 3: Set nocking point level
Use a bow square to set the D-loop so the arrow sits level or a hair nock-high through the rest.
Step 4: Paper tune at 6–8 feet
Shoot through paper and read the tear. A clean bullet hole confirms the basics; tears tell you what to move (see our paper tuning tutorial).
Step 5: Walk-back tune for center shot confirmation
Shoot one pin at 20, 30 and 40 yards on a vertical tape line. Drifting impacts mean the rest needs micro horizontal moves.
Step 6: Broadhead tune before season
Shoot field points and broadheads at 30 yards and chase the field point group with small rest moves until both group together.
Why Tuning Matters
A tuned compound bow sends every arrow out of the riser with the same clean energy transfer, so your broadheads and field points group together and your sight tape stays honest at long range. An out-of-tune bow can still shoot tight groups up close, which is exactly why so many archers never realize their setup is fighting them until a 50-yard shot drifts or a broadhead planes off target. Spending an evening on the steps below pays you back every time you draw.
Tuning is also cumulative. Cam timing affects nock travel, nock travel affects your paper tear, and your paper tear affects how forgiving the bow is of small form errors. Work the sequence in order and each adjustment makes the next one easier instead of chasing your tail between settings.
Tools You Will Need
- A draw board or a press to check and adjust cam timing safely
- A bow square for setting nock height and arrow level
- A tunable arrow rest with windage and elevation adjustment
- Paper tuning frame or a large sheet of paper in a frame at chest height
- A roll of paper tuning targets, plus a few broadheads matched to your hunting weight
- Allen wrenches sized to your rest, sight, and cam modules
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Paper tuning before cam timing is set, which chases tears that the timing is actually causing
- Standing too close or too far from the paper, since the read is only reliable around six to eight feet
- Adjusting the rest in big jumps instead of small, repeatable increments
- Ignoring a small nock-high tear because the bullet hole looks close enough
- Skipping the broadhead tune and assuming field-point accuracy carries over to hunting heads
Pro Tips for a Cleaner Tune
- Shoot a fresh, undamaged arrow when tuning, because a bent shaft or wobbly nock fakes a tear that no adjustment will fix
- Tune at the draw weight and arrow you will actually hunt or compete with, not a lighter practice setup
- Move the rest, not the nocking point, to fix left and right tears, and move the nock to fix vertical tears
- Re-check timing after any major poundage change, since the cams shift as the limbs flex differently
- Write your final rest position and nock height on a card so you can rebuild the tune after a string change
Final Word
A complete tune is not a one-time event. Strings stretch, cams creep, and a single dropped bow can move your rest, so re-walk this checklist at the start of every season and after any hardware change. The reward is a bow that forgives your worst shots and rewards your best ones, which is exactly what you want when the moment counts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the right order to tune a compound bow?
Set cam timing first, then center shot, then nock height, then paper tune, confirm with walk-back tuning, and finish with a broadhead tune.
How do I read a paper tear?
The point of the arrow shows nock direction: a tail-high tear means lower the nock or raise the rest, and a tail-left or tail-right tear means move the rest toward the tear.
Do I need a bow press to tune?
You can do most tuning without a press, but checking and correcting cam timing safely usually requires a draw board or press.
How often should I re-tune?
Re-check the full tune at the start of each season, after any string or cable change, and any time your groups or broadhead impact shift.
Why do my broadheads hit differently than field points?
Broadheads steer the front of the arrow and expose any tune or spine error, so a properly tuned bow is what brings the two impacts together.